Do This Now (Safe Checks Only)
These are the same checks I talk people through on the phone. No covers off. No messing with gas components. Just quick, sensible checks that can save you time (and sometimes save you a call-out).
- 1) Is the boiler actually powered? If the display is blank, check the fused spur and your consumer unit. I’ve had “total boiler failure” calls where it turned out a switch had tripped after the kettle + toaster + something else all went on at once.
- 2) Quick gas sanity check If you’ve got a gas hob, see if it lights. If you’re on a meter, check credit. It sounds basic, but it’s the kind of thing people miss when the house is cold and you’re rushing.
- 3) Check your boiler pressure Most systems want to sit around 1.0–1.5 bar when cold. If you’re down at 0.5 bar (or in the red), your boiler pressure is too low and the system will often lock out as a safety measure. If you're constantly topping up, that usually means your boiler keeps losing pressure and needs topping up. If your boiler pressure is too high (well over 2 bar when cold), don’t keep topping up — more isn’t better.
- 4) Reset once (not five times) One reset is fine. If it fires then dies again, you’re not “nearly there” — you’re just burning time while the house gets colder.
- 5) If it’s freezing outside: think condensate Around winter cold snaps, a frozen condensate pipe can shut a boiler down. If you’re in a semi around Petts Wood or St Mary Cray, it’s surprisingly common because a lot of runs go outside. If you’re not sure what pipe you’re looking at, call first — I’ll point you in the right direction.
If you’re standing there in socks, staring at the boiler like it owes you money — call 07706 889 614. If you’re on or near the A21 and you’ve got work/school runs to juggle, just say so. I’ll give you an honest ETA (no “someone will call you back” nonsense).
What It Usually Means (Not The “100 Possible Causes” List)
I’m keeping this grounded. In the Orpington–Bromley area, the repeat offenders are pretty consistent — especially in the mixed housing stock (older pipework in some spots, newer builds elsewhere).
Locked out due to low pressure
If pressure is low and the boiler won’t fire, you might get it running by topping up. But if it drops again soon after, it’s rarely “nothing”. That’s when it becomes less about buttons and more about finding why the system is losing water — which is why I point people to your boiler keeps losing pressure and needs topping up.
Boiler pressure too high
People see “low pressure” online and assume the answer is always to add water. If you’re sitting high when cold, stop topping up. High pressure can cause discharge outside and create repeat shutdowns (and it can make you think the boiler is failing when it’s reacting to the pressure).
Ignition / flame failure
This is where the boiler tries to fire and gives up. Sometimes you’ll see a fault code. Sometimes it just cycles. One reset is fine. After that, you’re better off calling and saving yourself the back-and-forth.
Circulation issues (radiators not heating up)
Different problem, but it gets mixed up with “no heating”. If your boiler runs but rooms stay cold, start with why your radiators might still be cold even when the boiler is on (valves, balancing, sludge, controls). And if you’ve got hot taps but cold radiators, use taps are hot but your heating won’t come on rather than guessing.
When to Stop DIY (This Part Matters)
I’m all for quick homeowner checks. I’m not for “let’s try a few things” when the few things involve gas, combustion, or repeated pressure topping.
- If you smell gas Leave the property, open windows if safe, and call the National Gas Emergency number: 0800 111 999. Don’t “just check something quickly”.
- If the boiler casing needs removing Stop. Anything inside the combustion case / gas train is not DIY territory.
- If the boiler keeps losing pressure Don’t keep topping up and hoping. That’s how small problems become bigger damage. If it’s happening, book proper investigation — start with your boiler keeps losing pressure and needs topping up.
- If you’ve had a leak warning letter Don’t excavate blind. Start with the right checks and a proper plan — you’ve had a letter about a suspected supply pipe leak.
A real-world example (because this is what actually happens)
A customer called from not far off A232 London Road — “boiler’s dead, everything’s dead”. They’d already reset it a bunch of times. We did the boring checks: power, then pressure. Gauge was low. They topped up, it fired… and everyone relaxed for about a day. Next morning the pressure had dropped again. If that sounds familiar, it’s often a classic boiler losing pressure overnight pattern rather than a one-off issue. That second part is the point: it wasn’t “fixed”, it was revealed. That’s why, when it keeps happening, I send people to your boiler keeps losing pressure and needs topping up before you waste time (or money) chasing guesses.
FAQ (quick answers, different situations)
My boiler is on, but nothing works — is it definitely the boiler?
Is it safe to reset the boiler?
What does boiler pressure too high actually cause?
My radiators aren’t heating up but the taps are hot — am I on the wrong page?
If the boiler keeps losing pressure, is it always a leak?
I’ve received a letter about a leak — what should I do first?
If you’re in Orpington or Bromley and the house is cold, call 07706 889 614. If you’re stuck near The Glades or you’ve just come off the A21 and realised the heating’s gone, say that on the call — it helps me judge timings and routes.