Controls & settings
Boiler set to “hot water only”
In summer loads of people switch the heating side off to save money, then forget. Months later it’s “why are the rads dead?” It happens more than you’d think.
I’m Stuart from SKR Plumbing & Heating. If the taps are piping hot but the house feels like a fridge, it’s usually one of a handful of faults — sometimes simple, sometimes “right… that’s why it’s been doing that”. I cover Orpington, Bromley, Chislehurst (BR7) and nearby areas, and I’ll talk you through the sensible next step.
If you’re stuck near Orpington High Street, around Bromley South or you’ve just got home to a cold house — say “hot water but no heating” when you ring and I’ll prioritise the right kind of visit.
When someone rings because it’s freezing indoors but the shower is still hot, I don’t jump straight to “you need a new boiler”. I start with a few checks I’ve learned the hard way — mostly from turning up to perfectly good boilers that were simply set wrong.
If you’re comfortable doing the basics, go through this list. If it’s not your thing, skip it and ring me on 07706 889 614. No judgement — not everyone wants to play detective with a boiler menu.
One quick note for Bromley/Orpington homes: the water here is on the harder side, so sludge and scale can cause odd heating behaviour over time. It’s not always the cause… but it’s often lurking in the background.
If you smell gas, see scorch marks, hear loud banging, or get repeated lockouts: switch the boiler off and call a professional. Don’t remove the boiler case.
This page is the overview. If you’ve got time (or you’re just fed up of the same fault coming back), these guides go deeper into the actual mechanics — pressure behaviour, circulation, balancing, airlocks, the lot. They’re written from the stuff I see in real homes around BR5/BR6 and across Bromley.
Start here if your situation is specifically radiators not heating but hot water works: the radiator circulation deep-dive (what fails and why).
And if you’re here because you searched “boiler repair near me” or “emergency boiler repair near me” — you’re in the right place, but we’ll keep it simple: call me first, I’ll ask a few questions, then we decide whether it’s a repair visit or something else.
Boilers are clever, but they’re still just machines following instructions. When I’m called to a house in Bromley or a flat nearer SE London where the radiators stay stone cold, it nearly always comes down to one of these. Some are quick tweaks; others need proper parts and proper testing.
In summer loads of people switch the heating side off to save money, then forget. Months later it’s “why are the rads dead?” It happens more than you’d think.
Old room stats and tired programmers in Orpington semis are a regular feature in my week. Flat batteries, worn dials, and messy wiring centres can all tell the boiler to stay asleep.
On most combi boilers the diverter valve decides where the heat goes — taps or radiators. If it sticks in the hot-water position, you get great showers and icy bedrooms. That needs proper diagnosis.
If one radiator stays cold, or upstairs never seems to heat properly, you can be looking at airlocks, balancing issues, or sludge. Hard-water areas don’t help — scale and debris builds up over time.
Below about 1 bar, many boilers refuse to run the heating safely. If you’ve bled radiators recently, had work done, or there’s a small weep somewhere, pressure can drop until the boiler just gives up.
On older boilers (15+ years) components start to fail. Sometimes a repair is sensible; sometimes we talk honestly about replacement. If you’re weighing options, I’ll explain it properly rather than chasing faults forever.
I don’t work out of a big “London plumbing” office. Most mornings start with a coffee in Orpington, a look at the diary, then I’m off down the A21 or cutting across towards Chislehurst and Bromley. The phrase “hot water but no heating” pops up a lot when the weather turns.
One Tuesday in January I was called to a terraced house just off Chislehurst Road. Hot taps, dead radiators. Someone had already told them on the phone it was “probably time for a replacement”. It wasn’t.
It was low pressure combined with a thermostat that had quietly died. A top-up, a swap, a proper check, and the heating was back. No drama. No sales pitch. Just explaining what actually happened.
Search plumbing and heating online and you’ll see a lot of “big firm” pages — call centres, tracking numbers, and someone trying to book you in before they’ve even heard the problem. That’s not how I work.
I’m a one-man local business. If I think your boiler is worth repairing, I’ll tell you. If your money is better spent elsewhere, I’ll tell you that too. If you’re comparing options, you can read about how I approach boiler repairs or check what a proper boiler service looks like — especially if you’re searching boiler service cost or trying to work out how much a boiler service is before booking.
Some people want the detail, some just want “is it safe and what’s the damage?”. Either is fine — I’ll meet you where you’re at.
I’ll tell you what I charge to attend and what the likely fix is, then we decide. I’m not here to surprise you.
Refurbs, lived-in homes, awkward faults — it’s all part of the week. If access/parking is tricky, just say and we’ll plan it.
I’m Stuart — the person who answers the phone, turns up, and does the work. I’m based around Orpington and I’m usually bouncing between BR5/BR6, Bromley and BR7 most weeks. This guide is written from what I see on real call-outs — not from rewriting other websites.
Most weeks I’m zig-zagging between Orpington town centre, Bromley, and BR7 — plus nearby DA/SE postcodes. If you’re along the A21, around Chislehurst, near Bromley South, or over towards Sidcup/Dartford, there’s a good chance I’m already working nearby.
Not sure if you’re in range? Use the postcode enquiry form or call 07706 889 614 and I’ll tell you straight.
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Not automatically. Often it’s controls, circulation or a valve fault. But if you smell gas, see scorch marks, hear loud banging, or the boiler repeatedly locks out with error codes, switch it off at the main controls and get it checked.
In many cases, yes — most modern combi boilers have a filling loop for that. If you’re confident, you can bring it back to around 1–1.5 bar when the system is cold. If you’re unsure which valves to touch, stop and call someone who does this daily.
Depends on what’s happening. If something has failed (diverter valve, pump, sensor), it’s a repair. If the system is dirty, sludgy, or pressure behaviour is off, a proper service and system health check can stop repeat faults. I’ll tell you which it is once it’s tested — not guessed.
Simple thermostat/control issues are usually cheaper. Parts like pumps or diverter valves cost more once labour is included. I’ll explain the likely range before work starts so you can decide — especially if you’re weighing it up against replacement.
That’s a flag. Repeated air can mean corrosion inside the system or poor water quality. In hard-water areas, scale and debris can make it worse. If it’s happening often, it’s worth diagnosing the cause rather than living with it.
If you’ve done the basics and the radiators are still cold, it’s probably time for proper diagnosis. Homeowner, landlord, contractor — doesn’t matter. I’ll give you a straight answer and a sensible next step.
Based in Orpington, regularly working across Bromley, BR7, SE London and North Kent. If you’re stuck near a station or access/parking is awkward, mention it when you call — it helps me plan the day properly.